In its golden age, Lisbon gained a reputation as the eighth wonder of the world. Travelers returning from the city boasted that its riches rivaled those of Venice. As one of the greatest maritime centers in history, the Portuguese capital imported exotic wares from the far-flung corners of its empire.

Treasures from Asia -- including porcelain, luxurious silks, rubies, pearls, and other rare gems -- arrived at Indian seaports on Chinese junks and eventually found their way to Lisbon. The abundance and variety of spices from the East, such as turmeric, ginger, pepper, cumin, and betel, rivaled even Keats's vision of "silken Samarkand."

From the Americas came red dyewood (brazilwood), coffee, gold, diamonds, and other gemstones. The extensive contact signaled a new era in world trade, and Lisbon sat at the center of a great maritime empire, a hub of commerce for Europe, Africa, and Asia.

Today, after a decades-long slumber, there is excitement again in this luminous city. Construction went on around the clock as Lisbon prepared for EXPO '98, which marked the 500th anniversary of Vasco da Gama's journey to India. Lisbon welcomed the world to its doorstep, and the visitors found a brighter, fresher city, as they continue to do today.

The most dramatic change of all was the opening of the Vasco da Gama Bridge spanning the Tagus. Ponte Vasco da Gama speeds access to other areas of Portugal, including Alentejo province, with links to Spain. An entire new suburb being created along the east bank of the Tagus has brought Lisbon a new railway hub, Gare de Oriente. Brash postmodern office buildings and restored medieval facades are just some of the changes that have altered the skyline. Still in place is the Lisbon of old, with its great art and architecture -- which is what probably brought you here in the first place.